Myriad events in the Bigu general metropolis

This was when my eyes started tearing up on the way out of Bigu.

On a couple of my nights in Bigu, we were invited to supper with a nun. Whlie that may sound really boring to you folks, it was a blast. My first night Narjin and monkette Somden Wangmo made me supper. I had a fantastic time, speaking Nepali, teaching English (ke kam gar chha=waat du yuu du?), slicing mountain squash, and drinking coffee. Narjin is from Nepal and has lived here in the monastery for 28 of her 42 years. Somden is young still, only 13 I think. We had a “tomato-ey” (it tasted like a persimmonpeachthing) goodness that I would have gobbled up if it weren’t so spicy. We learned the difference between “I have a cold” and “I am cold”, how to ask about what people do and where they’re from, and that the Tibetan word for nun (“ani”) is the name of a Western musical. They took good care of me.
The second time I had dinner with the nun who looks like Gail (Tsering Chenzum), and three mini-nuns (Jangchub Chodon, Serap Dolma, and Loden Wangmo). We had the best Nepali tea I’ve had--lots of cinnamon and cloves… mmmm. Then I got to help make some potato balls… did you know that if you mash boiled potatoes for long enough in a giant wooden bowl with a giant wooden stick it will turn doughy? I thought you didn’t. Then you roll it into balls and boil it in a savory soup. It was delish, and again, I had a wondrous time. I loved both of my evenings with the nuns, and it was an experience I can never forget.

Tsering Chenzum, Serap Dolma, Jangchub Choden, and Loden Wangmo, clockwise from left.

The next week the nuns celebrated the death day of the founder of their gumba. There was a GIANT puja for this which lasted two days and cancelled classes. On the second day the nuns fasted from food and speaking. Sarah took part fully in this, but I can’t really be a good person without food, so I ate. I did go the whole day without talking though! Ok, well I slipped up once and talked to Rob about art, but if you get me started on art… and then I did catch myself speaking aloud twice when there was no one else around. If you know me, you know I talk to myself. I’m not sure if this counts or not. Anyways, the puja involved drinking saffron water (which tastes a lot like camphor) and lots of prostrations. It was a nice break that allowed us all to meditate and enjoy the beautiful scenery.

The fancy things all set up for the death-day puja.

On our last day, Patty and Sarah threw a tea party to which all the nuns were invited. It was a wonderful celebration. They practiced their Enlgish, Patty and I entertained with Disney songs and a horrific rendition of the American National Anthem. It was nice, because it gave us a chance to be as hospitable as we could to the women who had made our stay amazing. The next morning we had to head out, and we were bombarded with katas (journey scarves) and walked all the way to our jeep by nunkies who wouldn’t let us carry our heavy bags. These women were amazing, and I plan on keeping the promises I made them to come back within the next years.

Sarah serving tea to the nuns!