A trip to Shanti-Didi’s

Me dressed up in sari, just like a Nepali bride

With the help of Anna, I have befriended one of the kitchen staff, a lovely lady named Shanti Thapa, who I call Shanti-didi, and who invited us over for supper and a stay overnight (or for the weekend, or for the rest of our lives); unfortunately, Anna was sick the day we were supposed to go and then went on a kayak trip, but I finally made arrangements to go on my own. We had been to Shanti-didi’s house just to visit for an evening, but going on my own to a completely Nepali home all on my own was more frightening to my cowardly heart than I care to admit.I’m glad I overcame that.

Shanti-didi and her lovely children were more kind than I ever expected, and although Shanti-didi doesn’t speak any English, her kids study it in school and her youngest daughter Rashmi was a huge help. Once the girls (three of them, Srijana, Ranjana, and Rashmi) got home from school, I was immediately transformed into a life size doll: I got my makeup done and a new kurta sorwal of my own, plus a new sweater, new earrings, and new bangles and necklaces. I then was taken to the local Shiva Mandev temple, then we had fresh guava from the tree in the backyard, followed by a big supper, including chicken which I didn’t have the heart to turn down even though I knew it would bring on a terrible tummy ache… they bought a whole half a chicken for the occasion that I was there. After supper we looked through all the photos they had and then put on a serious dance party--it was a blast. I got sleepy very quickly, as I’m wont to do here, and was given a nice cozy bed.

Getting made up by Srijana

Saksham and I at the Mandev temple site

The next morning, Shanti-didi woke us all up, I was given warm, sweetened milk and biscuits, and then we all went up on the roof to see the Himalayas (the Annapurnas, Mashupishare, and Ganesh Himal). Then it was “Raya doll” time again, and I was dressed in a traditional Indian linga and then a beautiful red sari, each one followed by a photo shoot. They made me a nice Nepali breakfast (including everything from supper the night before plus a fried egg and potato soup) and then we set out to meet my friend Ber, a girl from Holland who’s also working at the HRDC, and we trekked up to a temple called Changu Narayan, one of the oldest and (according to Lonely Planet) most beautiful temple complexes in Nepal. Much of it dates from the 500s CE, and it was cool looking, but after as many temple complexes as I’ve seen, they all start to look the same. There was a big elephant carved of stone and lots of Nepali families picnicking. Woot.

Shanti-didi, me, Rashmi, Ranjana, and Srijana at sunrise on the roof

The Changu Narayan temple, complete with guard to make sure non-Hindus do not enter!

After a little shopping in Bhaktapur, during which Shanti-didi got us the Nepali price (700 rupees less than the tourist price at times!), Ber and I headed back to Banepa (with a quick trip by the giant Shiva statue being built and eventually painted by a rich Indian man; on Sunday we also made a quick trip to Dhulikhel which boasts a big golden Buddha and some marvelous views of the Himalaya). I was loaded down with gifts and new clothes, and it only makes me want to be a great hostess whenever I have guests visiting. So, whenever I get back to the States and I figure out what my address is going to be, please, drop by. =)

My friend Ber at a shrine in Dhulikhel

The GIANT Shiva statue. Def gonna be the corniest thing in Kathmandu here in a couple of years...